Sunday, October 31, 2010

Play - 2

"between the lines"


"kind of fishy"

"an idea. surprise"

Saturday, October 30, 2010


Linings, like underwear, are seen and appreciated by the wearer and those close to him. It is a chance to have a little fun, and opportunities are plentiful as linings are everywhere: in gloves, scarves, hats, coats, bags, if it has a backside, it has a lining. That is no excuse to over do it though; usually a little contrast will do.

If your lining shows, well that could be considered taboo - speaking of which, garments can come unlined as well.



"on a roll"

"whip it"


Saturday, October 16, 2010

The Romance of It All

Photo: Duke & Duchess of Windsor Society

We are all hopeless romantics in some way as we have dreams and stories to tell. And why not be taken by a photograph or thought, and write our own stories? Countless have entered the world of a French House through their carré designs, or gone back through British history by having a trench coat on their shoulders. Nostalgic interpretations often end up better than the real thing, as evidenced by British dress as done by the Italians, and the value of craft in Japan.

Whether Duke or actress, Italy or France, Saville Row or designer, we all have our icons, and shoes we would love to fill.

Got Curve?

Curves lend clothes shape, and it goes beyond silhouette. Remember, textiles start as 2D objects and only through seams, steam and darts are they given shape and life. And thus through curves can a garment be more stylish, jaunty and rakish than the next.

The insouciant roll of a classic button-down collar. The graceful roll of a lapel down a coat. The curve on the brim of a fedora. All caress the eye, imbuing the wearer with a certain vibrancy. Think how a silk scarf always looks just right with its soft lines. Even the lowly wrinkle looks better curved as a soft crumple than as a sharp crease.

And the best curves out there? Likely those of shoes. Seems natural for something which is often described as being hot.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

An Admirer

Hermes in Vancouver had on hand over the past week a master leather craftsman from their Paris workshops. No photos were allowed - understandable given the problem of conterfeit handbags.

A workbench was set up in the store, and there she answered questions and plied her trade as people watched. It was a beautiful sight to behold. Spools of linen thread in wonderful colors, illuminated by a work lamp, lined the top of the workbench while various handtools lined its walls. On the table, a red calfskin Jypsiere was slowly taking form, one expert handstitch at a time. Leather pieces are sewn together by first marking holes with a fork-like tool, piercing the leather with an awl, and then sewing linen thread with a pair of needles. Sewn edges are rounded with a heated iron, sanded down, coated with dye, and finally polished with beeswax.

A Jypsiere in leather takes 15 hours to make - all by hand, save for machine-aided stamping of the pieces of skin, and sewing of the lining - while one in crocodile or alligator takes 20-25 hours as these skins are more delicate. Indeed, all of Hermes' leather products are fabricated by hand. Given the interest of visitors to the store, this bag may have to be finished back in France.