Between the Lines

Another Tie

From top: cashmere tie, cashmere tie, silk knitted tie, cashmere tie and large knot grenadine tie.

What's in a Wardrobe?

I like the idea of having a wardrobe where there is something to wear for every situation - for example, a particular season, each day of the week maybe, anything that life has to throw at you, or just according to how one feels. Being able to mix and match what you have, and looking chic for it, is the epitome of style. Lest a wardrobe gets excessive, remember: a wardrobe is used and utilitarian to a tee, whereas a collection is about, well, collecting.

So what is in a wardrobe? There will be the staples to see you through the day, some special items here and there, and plenty of accessories to make it all interesting. So here is to sock wardrobes, hat wardrobes, and everything else in between. As to a wardrobe of umbrellas, that may be much - even for rainy Vancouver.

Shirt as Example

Building and maintaining a shirt wardrobe is a sartorial journey, one encompassing fit, form, make, material, color and texture. The shirt is felt by the wearer and seen by everyone else, and when done right touches both's hearts. A higher collar. Longer points. More spread. Three millimeters here, 3/4" there. The details are subtle, but curiosity brings about experimentation and refinements are made from shirt to shirt. Tastes, desires and whims evolve. Maybe a darker shade of blue and a fine check this time around.

Ultimately, each shirt has its own personality and brings with it its own experiences. And with each shirt the wearer learns something about the shirt and themselves. A journey indeed.

For That Glow

Treat your shoes to a day at the spa. Start with a hydrating cream to nourish the leather and work out those wrinkles and fine lines. Saphir's shea butter based cream is a winner.

Now put on some wax to protect the leather. Keep the product natural: wax is all you need, and Kiwi has been the name for basic polishes.

Buff with a brush. The more you do it the better the shine; and we can all stand to be more vibrant can't we? A horsehair brush, in keeping with the natural products theme, is the way to go. For that extra touch of luxury, buff with a sheepskin mit for a shine that says, "wow".

Hot and Heavy

Enjoy Responsibly

Perusing through swatches, those collections of fabrics and skins, is one of life's true pleasures. The sensual delight of leafing through nature's materials - silks, linens, cottons, wools, felts and leathers to name a few - is intoxicating. One touches and caresses the samples. Eyes widen. The mind wanders, and the heart grows fond of the possibilities.

There will be materials too rare and dear to ever own something made in it, and the sheer number and variety of materials available could not possibly be rendered into a wardrobe over a lifetime. But what is intoxicating is being able to see and feel a finished piece - a tie, shirt, suit, hat or pair of shoes perhaps - when all you have is a swatch of material before you. Thoughts of a piece or two can easily turn into an order for three.

The Right Touches

A Fitting Day

London-based bespoke tailor Jonathan Quearney was recently in Vancouver as part of his North America trip. I last saw him in March when I was measured up for a coat, and I have been looking forward to my fitting ever since. Having a swatch of the fabric I picked out helped the past nine months go by, but nothing can speak for actually having the garment on your back.

At the fitting, the coat felt exquisite - made so by the cutting and tailoring. It is true what they say, that it is difficult to imaging the fit and feel of a bespoke garment without having gone that route. With the requisite measuring, chalking and pinning accomplished, the coat will return to London where it will be adjusted, finished and sent back to me. I wait again; afterall, it was a fitting day.

Tip of the Hat

A nod to all in customer service and sales, who's professional standards, duty of service, personal compass, and charm are without peer. Your company is appreciated.

Have a Hand in It

Fine things age gracefully and a little effort put into taking care of them will ensure they have the chance to do so. The last thing you want is to shorten the life of a favorite item out of neglect. Washing clothes, polishing shoes and other so-called chores associated with what is worn are decidely unglamorous; however, they are noble pursuits, and very often all that is needed is a personal touch. And who better to give that than the one who appreciates them the most?

London Calling

London-based bespoke tailor Jonathan Quearney will be returning to North America in early December. He will be in Vancouver on December 2nd. Consult his blog for further information, and feel free to make an appointment.

Fresh Flowers...

... to start off the day.

A Repair

During a recent rain-soaked day my dear umbrella broke. One of the metal lugs which connect the fabric cover to the fiberglass ribs was gone. There was no way I was going to replace the umbrella - the patina on the wood handle is just starting to develop after two years of use - so I visited the local umbrella shop for a matching lug and sewed it on myself. Good as used, and not a day in the wet wasted.

Nuanced

Details are more than just details, they are the design. For the discerning few, this goes beyond the construct of an object. It has to do with the beauty of things: beautiful things and the emotions they elicit. It is these emotions and the experiences which prompt them that reward and bring about nuance. What a rich life to enjoy the subtleties and variations that come with it.

The Truth

There is no getting past the tape - a proverbial lie detector. Thought you were 5' 10" in height? Wrong. Thirty-three inch waist? Not anymore... Some of the best memories of my early visits with tailors have to do with learning what truly was versus what I had believed. The gaze of a tailor as they work away - on you - is something to experience, much like being under a microscope. The truth is not all dire though. To go with my mismatched feet and longer right leg, at least I have arms that match.

In Shadows

Play - 2

"between the lines"

"checkmate"

"kind of fishy"

"an idea. surprise"

Scandalous

Linings, like underwear, are seen and appreciated by the wearer and those close to him. It is a chance to have a little fun, and opportunities are plentiful as linings are everywhere: in gloves, scarves, hats, coats, bags, if it has a backside, it has a lining. That is no excuse to over do it though; usually a little contrast will do.

If your lining shows, well that could be considered taboo - speaking of which, garments can come unlined as well.

Play

"well-heeled"

"on a roll"

"whip it"




"good-day"