Sartorial Vancouver

Doing It On Your Own

2011-09-06T10:27:00.001-07:00

Some things are worth doing on your own, and to do so requires skills and the patience to learn them. Realizing the former is a great first step in every person's life. The latter is life itself.

Words to Live By

2011-08-06T20:09:00.001-07:00

With Summer part way through and Fall around the corner, I took the time to edit (read: clean out) my wardrobe. Pieces that did not get worn much or at all were up for consideration. Several shirts, ties, socks, shoes, hats and sportcoats - likely enough to form a wardrobe on their own - lost out and were tossed. Actually, I was the one who lost out. Those items should have been keepers. You go into a friendship expecting a longterm play - acquiring a wardrobe item is no different. So where did I go wrong?

Settling. Ever wanted something but didn't go for it for one reason or another, and went instead with the next best thing? Well, you never stopped thinking about what you wanted in the first place did you?

Lured by the sale. If the goods were inferior to begin with, do they suddenly improve with a price drop? No, they don't.

Learn to love it. If it does not feel right on first impression, it rarely gets any better with time.

Those are some of the lessons learned, and over time many more will follow. And to be sure, there is a list of things that have come and gone as a reminder.

Summer's Weave

2011-06-12T10:14:00.001-07:00

Summer is the time for open weaves. Coarse or fine, an open weave lets the breeze through. All the better to enjoy the shine.

Packaging

2011-06-12T09:44:00.000-07:00

Great packaging goes hand in hand with great products. And great service. And great customer experience - indeed each touchpoint should be memorable for all the right reasons. Which brings us back to packaging. My favorites are those that are delightful to the senses, much like the products they hold. They beg to be used, held onto, even collected. Boxes made of firm paper board, with surface texture and in a rich shade are attention-worthy unto themselves. What lies inside, wrapped in soft and crisp tissue? That will be for another time.

Panama Dreaming

2011-06-05T09:33:00.000-07:00

Fedora or optimo crown, Summer is the time for panama loving.

Fun in the Sun

2011-06-05T09:27:00.000-07:00

A Casual Day

2011-05-29T10:07:00.001-07:00

The art of being casual? Not always. Not never. Sometimes. The rest is up to you.

Hands

2011-05-14T11:09:00.001-07:00

Hands are to the body what eyes are to the face. A touch-point. A window into a person. Catch their eye, then touch their hand. Hands tell tales of battles lost and won, and hint at a person's personality. Are they nervous, outgoing, strong, compassionate or confused even? People wearing sunglasses who's hands are in their pockets have an air of mystery about them. What are they hiding? What do they have to tell?

Hands come plain, or adorned in all manner of polish and jewelry. I prefer mine plain, regularly washed, and suitably surrounded by a shirt cuff. Seems a bit vanilla, but then again I am hardly a man of mystery.

Bare Essentials

2011-02-21T08:26:00.001-08:00

May 14 update: I finally got around to finishing this post. Having time to pursue the things we enjoy is a bit of a luxury, but then it really is about taking the time isn't it?

With a newborn in the house, the living has been primal. There seems to be just enough time for the barest of essentials, like getting sleep and putting on clean underwear. It is amazing how things concerning dress can fall by the wayside. Suddenly socks have holes in them, and every shirt seems to be wrinkled. At a time when dressing is about covering up, holes and wrinkles are just fine! Every button, zipper, belt and shoelace is a struggle. Sportswear and tights become a godsend.

Remember How...

2011-01-23T16:49:00.000-08:00

Toys were fun and you owned nothing but. You made things yours, maybe by playing with it, giving it a personality, a name - even yours.

Everything had its place and some things just could not mix, while so many other things could, in the most imaginative of ways. You made the rules.

There was so much to learn: why things were the way they were, how things worked. You wanted to know everything and to do it yourself. You tried, got frustrated and kept trying. Things would fall into place, somehow they always did.

All in the Bag

2011-01-21T06:14:00.000-08:00

As bags are useful, I can understand why people would want to own several. For business, travel, day, evening, woman or man, each situation demands its own bag. There is the duffle for clothes and the odd short trip, briefcase and portfolio for papers and the day's newspaper, clutch for the evening's necessities, tote for shopping, and luggage for getting away; not to mention the cases for laptops, and bags for shoe, makeup, toiletries and even lunch. Hard-sided or soft-sided, in different colors and materials, hand-carried, messenger-style or over-the-shoulder, there really is no end, nor does there need to be, to bags.

A fantastic bag makes a fantastic accessory - a window into the wearer's personality and mood of the day. Maybe an unstructured bag for a change of line, or a hard-sided brief for an air of seriousness? I like my bags to have simple lines and a sense of purpose as they are entrusted with carrying my possessions. Whatever the case, you carry the bag, do not let it carry you.

How you use your bag is up to you. I will only say that it is not nice to sit on other people's bags, but then it is not nice to leave your bag on someone else's seat either. I like to change which ones I use to suit the mood of the day. I find bags useful as I do not carry things in my pockets but still manage to carry many things with me. To borrow a saying, it is all in the bag.

Downtime

2011-01-20T07:01:00.000-08:00

In this day of i-that and e-this, it seems that our sense of touch is ruled by button-pushing and screen-swiping. What of tactile delights and art? I am all for pen and paper. No keystroke has compared to the glide of a well-balanced pen across fine paper. Journals take on the shape of your hands. The feel of wood, paper and leather: warm and soft, with a natural physical beauty. The crinkle of pages whilst leafing through one's thoughts makes for good company.

Between the Lines

2011-01-05T06:57:00.000-08:00

Another Tie

2011-01-03T16:01:00.001-08:00

From top: cashmere tie, cashmere tie, silk knitted tie, cashmere tie and large knot grenadine tie.

What's in a Wardrobe?

2011-01-03T15:10:00.000-08:00

I like the idea of having a wardrobe where there is something to wear for every situation - for example, a particular season, each day of the week maybe, anything that life has to throw at you, or just according to how one feels. Being able to mix and match what you have, and looking chic for it, is the epitome of style. Lest a wardrobe gets excessive, remember: a wardrobe is used and utilitarian to a tee, whereas a collection is about, well, collecting.

So what is in a wardrobe? There will be the staples to see you through the day, some special items here and there, and plenty of accessories to make it all interesting. So here is to sock wardrobes, hat wardrobes, and everything else in between. As to a wardrobe of umbrellas, that may be much - even for rainy Vancouver.

Shirt as Example

2011-01-01T15:21:00.001-08:00

Building and maintaining a shirt wardrobe is a sartorial journey, one encompassing fit, form, make, material, color and texture. The shirt is felt by the wearer and seen by everyone else, and when done right touches both's hearts. A higher collar. Longer points. More spread. Three millimeters here, 3/4" there. The details are subtle, but curiosity brings about experimentation and refinements are made from shirt to shirt. Tastes, desires and whims evolve. Maybe a darker shade of blue and a fine check this time around.

Ultimately, each shirt has its own personality and brings with it its own experiences. And with each shirt the wearer learns something about the shirt and themselves. A journey indeed.

For That Glow

2010-12-27T15:18:00.000-08:00

Treat your shoes to a day at the spa. Start with a hydrating cream to nourish the leather and work out those wrinkles and fine lines. Saphir's shea butter based cream is a winner.

Now put on some wax to protect the leather. Keep the product natural: wax is all you need, and Kiwi has been the name for basic polishes.

Buff with a brush. The more you do it the better the shine; and we can all stand to be more vibrant can't we? A horsehair brush, in keeping with the natural products theme, is the way to go. For that extra touch of luxury, buff with a sheepskin mit for a shine that says, "wow".

Hot and Heavy

2010-12-24T13:47:00.001-08:00

Enjoy Responsibly

2010-12-23T14:10:00.000-08:00

Perusing through swatches, those collections of fabrics and skins, is one of life's true pleasures. The sensual delight of leafing through nature's materials - silks, linens, cottons, wools, felts and leathers to name a few - is intoxicating. One touches and caresses the samples. Eyes widen. The mind wanders, and the heart grows fond of the possibilities.

There will be materials too rare and dear to ever own something made in it, and the sheer number and variety of materials available could not possibly be rendered into a wardrobe over a lifetime. But what is intoxicating is being able to see and feel a finished piece - a tie, shirt, suit, hat or pair of shoes perhaps - when all you have is a swatch of material before you. Thoughts of a piece or two can easily turn into an order for three.

The Right Touches

2010-12-12T10:18:00.000-08:00

A Fitting Day

2010-12-04T09:22:00.000-08:00

London-based bespoke tailor Jonathan Quearney was recently in Vancouver as part of his North America trip. I last saw him in March when I was measured up for a coat, and I have been looking forward to my fitting ever since. Having a swatch of the fabric I picked out helped the past nine months go by, but nothing can speak for actually having the garment on your back.

At the fitting, the coat felt exquisite - made so by the cutting and tailoring. It is true what they say, that it is difficult to imaging the fit and feel of a bespoke garment without having gone that route. With the requisite measuring, chalking and pinning accomplished, the coat will return to London where it will be adjusted, finished and sent back to me. I wait again; afterall, it was a fitting day.

Tip of the Hat

2010-11-30T08:06:00.000-08:00

A nod to all in customer service and sales, who's professional standards, duty of service, personal compass, and charm are without peer. Your company is appreciated.

Have a Hand in It

2010-11-30T07:33:00.000-08:00

Fine things age gracefully and a little effort put into taking care of them will ensure they have the chance to do so. The last thing you want is to shorten the life of a favorite item out of neglect. Washing clothes, polishing shoes and other so-called chores associated with what is worn are decidely unglamorous; however, they are noble pursuits, and very often all that is needed is a personal touch. And who better to give that than the one who appreciates them the most?

London Calling

2010-11-18T06:12:00.000-08:00

London-based bespoke tailor Jonathan Quearney will be returning to North America in early December. He will be in Vancouver on December 2nd. Consult his blog for further information, and feel free to make an appointment.

Fresh Flowers...

2010-11-14T10:28:00.000-08:00

... to start off the day.

A Repair

2010-11-14T09:49:00.000-08:00

During a recent rain-soaked day my dear umbrella broke. One of the metal lugs which connect the fabric cover to the fiberglass ribs was gone. There was no way I was going to replace the umbrella - the patina on the wood handle is just starting to develop after two years of use - so I visited the local umbrella shop for a matching lug and sewed it on myself. Good as used, and not a day in the wet wasted.

Nuanced

2010-11-12T03:07:00.000-08:00

Details are more than just details, they are the design. For the discerning few, this goes beyond the construct of an object. It has to do with the beauty of things: beautiful things and the emotions they elicit. It is these emotions and the experiences which prompt them that reward and bring about nuance. What a rich life to enjoy the subtleties and variations that come with it.

The Truth

2010-11-10T11:13:00.000-08:00

There is no getting past the tape - a proverbial lie detector. Thought you were 5' 10" in height? Wrong. Thirty-three inch waist? Not anymore... Some of the best memories of my early visits with tailors have to do with learning what truly was versus what I had believed. The gaze of a tailor as they work away - on you - is something to experience, much like being under a microscope. The truth is not all dire though. To go with my mismatched feet and longer right leg, at least I have arms that match.

In Shadows

2010-11-10T11:00:00.000-08:00

Play - 2

2010-10-31T16:17:00.000-07:00

"between the lines"

"checkmate"

"kind of fishy"

"an idea. surprise"

Scandalous

2010-10-30T10:55:00.000-07:00

Linings, like underwear, are seen and appreciated by the wearer and those close to him. It is a chance to have a little fun, and opportunities are plentiful as linings are everywhere: in gloves, scarves, hats, coats, bags, if it has a backside, it has a lining. That is no excuse to over do it though; usually a little contrast will do.

If your lining shows, well that could be considered taboo - speaking of which, garments can come unlined as well.

Play

2010-10-30T10:23:00.000-07:00

"well-heeled"

"on a roll"

"whip it"

"good-day"

The Romance of It All

2010-10-16T10:26:00.000-07:00

Photo: Duke & Duchess of Windsor Society

We are all hopeless romantics in some way as we have dreams and stories to tell. And why not be taken by a photograph or thought, and write our own stories? Countless have entered the world of a French House through their carré designs, or gone back through British history by having a trench coat on their shoulders. Nostalgic interpretations often end up better than the real thing, as evidenced by British dress as done by the Italians, and the value of craft in Japan.

Whether Duke or actress, Italy or France, Saville Row or designer, we all have our icons, and shoes we would love to fill.

Got Curve?

2010-10-16T09:29:00.000-07:00

Curves lend clothes shape, and it goes beyond silhouette. Remember, textiles start as 2D objects and only through seams, steam and darts are they given shape and life. And thus through curves can a garment be more stylish, jaunty and rakish than the next.

The insouciant roll of a classic button-down collar. The graceful roll of a lapel down a coat. The curve on the brim of a fedora. All caress the eye, imbuing the wearer with a certain vibrancy. Think how a silk scarf always looks just right with its soft lines. Even the lowly wrinkle looks better curved as a soft crumple than as a sharp crease.

And the best curves out there? Likely those of shoes. Seems natural for something which is often described as being hot.

An Admirer

2010-10-09T20:43:00.001-07:00

Hermes in Vancouver had on hand over the past week a master leather craftsman from their Paris workshops. No photos were allowed - understandable given the problem of conterfeit handbags.

A workbench was set up in the store, and there she answered questions and plied her trade as people watched. It was a beautiful sight to behold. Spools of linen thread in wonderful colors, illuminated by a work lamp, lined the top of the workbench while various handtools lined its walls. On the table, a red calfskin Jypsiere was slowly taking form, one expert handstitch at a time. Leather pieces are sewn together by first marking holes with a fork-like tool, piercing the leather with an awl, and then sewing linen thread with a pair of needles. Sewn edges are rounded with a heated iron, sanded down, coated with dye, and finally polished with beeswax.

A Jypsiere in leather takes 15 hours to make - all by hand, save for machine-aided stamping of the pieces of skin, and sewing of the lining - while one in crocodile or alligator takes 20-25 hours as these skins are more delicate. Indeed, all of Hermes' leather products are fabricated by hand. Given the interest of visitors to the store, this bag may have to be finished back in France.

An Open Letter

2010-09-17T03:45:00.000-07:00

To the man in the blue suit and brown shoes,

I saw you six years ago. This was downtown; you were waiting to cross the street near Burrard St. and Georgia St., and I was walking by on the other side. I doubt you noticed me, but I continue to remember you and the inspiration of the moment.

Of all the downtown workers that day, you looked amazing - a picture of ease and confidence. The color of your suit and shoes were most rich and subdued. I do not remember much else of that day, and in hindsight can only speculate that you dressed with utmost thought and handled yourself graciously. And though my memory is failing me, you continue to serve as an inspiration: that one can be seen, but not seen.

Yours,

Charles

On Belts

2010-09-06T14:46:00.000-07:00

I wish to discourse on belts. Let me begin by saying that black belts are to be paired with black shoes and black shoes alone. It seems most people have this down, though I fear it is because they only wear black shoes.

Having said the above, it is a bit of a surprise that I have not given belts much thought as they do keep my pants up. I was reminded of this critical role when I was asked to remove my belt at the airport security check. The agent did not take kindly to my remark that my pants would fall if I did so. But I digress.

I last left Paris with a pair of beautiful burgundy shoes but somehow passed on a matching handstitched belt - a decision I would like to have back - that would have been the height of my wardrobe. Instead I have made do with a generic department store purchase which somehow has held its own in my wardrobe. Life has a way of working out.

(On the topics of French goods and making do, there are those who can make do with Hermes belts made of the finest skins by the best hands in leather work. Life need not be fair.)

To end, a note: travel clothing store Tilley Endurables, a bit off the beaten sartorial path, has been my source for casual belts of late; and an open question: where can I get a great woven leather belt, as it seems everyone has one yet mine still eludes me?

Historical Treasure

2010-09-06T14:30:00.000-07:00

Sears catalogs as historical reference. Flipping through this series published by Shiffer was enlightening, a glimpse into the clothing available to the average American. Seeing it described as fashionable is pause for thought, but then again the designs did change with the times.

I grew up questioning my parents on why they had to keep every season's Sears catalog. I am eating those words now.

So Long Summer; Hello Fall

2010-09-06T14:05:00.000-07:00

There is a chill in the air and soon leaves will be on the ground. That is no place for tan shoes and linen clothes - they have had their time. Instead, it will be boots, and woolens in all their glorious forms. Gloves and scarves will take the place of sunscreen and sunglasses. Here is to the season ahead.

Clear Skies

2010-08-25T07:03:00.000-07:00

A Sea of Hats...

2010-08-20T07:57:00.000-07:00

... one I would gladly drown in.

Autumn Coming

2010-08-14T18:03:00.000-07:00

Colors and textures of the coming season. In short, autumn in a picture.

Swatches

2010-08-14T17:51:00.000-07:00

The window coverings of this apartment building reminded me of fabric swatches.

Living Simply

2010-08-14T10:56:00.000-07:00

I gravitate towards simple designs where the line between function and beauty is blurred, and materials and make are defining details. That for me represents perfect execution of an item - one which you do not have to think about, but still captures your appreciation and adoration.

Afterall, why make something more complex than it needs to be?

Get Out the Door

2010-08-11T06:21:00.001-07:00

As nice as nice things get, they get nicer when you use them. That may be hard to believe, looking at something new; however, there is a charm and soul to things that are lived in. As possessions age they provide a window into the life of their owners, and that is when clothes look their best - when they are worn.

Jumping in with Both Feet

2010-07-18T09:56:00.000-07:00

Most things become ours and even us when we accept it. And when it comes to wearing clothes, confidence and commitment show, as any hesitation would have the clothes wearing us. If you are going to wear it, then embrace it. Make it yours and the love shows.

The Season

2010-07-10T10:21:00.000-07:00

This for me is summer in a picture. Colors which are deep and rich, but not dark. Textures imparted by silk and linen: light and airy, all the better to compliment the shine of the sun and the breeze of the day. Made up as an unlined tie, casually going about the day without a worry of wrinkles or anything else for that matter.

Taking Care

2010-07-08T13:39:00.000-07:00

If you are going to wear something two days in a row, be sure to air it out on a hanger between wearings. That will keep odors down, and let wrinkles fall out, leaving you looking and smelling fresh.

The Good Life

2010-07-08T11:57:00.000-07:00

Clothes can become all-consuming, an experience encompassing more than acquiring the latest must-have, chasing trends and looking for newness. There is fashion history - rich with inspiration - across cultures and societies. Details of materials and make inform, leading one to appreciate what is rare and time consuming over that which is readily available. All the better as relationships with designers and artisans are nurtured. We become discerning, outfits turn into wardrobes, and style takes the place of trends. We dress ourselves and for ourselves.

Summer Chic

2010-06-28T17:52:00.001-07:00

Life's Surprises

2010-06-26T11:26:00.000-07:00

As with the stretch of sidewalk in the picture, you never know where you will find love. Applies nicely to a walk in the neighborhood or browsing through a favorite store.

Wrong Way

2010-06-26T10:08:00.000-07:00

Things should get better with age, and most good things usually do. Too bad some clothing companies are heading the other way by cutting back on the quality of their goods.

Examples from my own closet: shoes from a U.S. company where the quality of the leathers used for the soles, uppers and linings have declined, as have the quality of construction, yet the price of their shoes have gone up; and an Italian brand which made changes to their shoes to enable a lower retail price, so shoes once sold at USD 850 are now priced at USD 750, and in my eyes are not even worth USD 500 - the drop in quality being so great.

What is unsettling is that these changes have happened within the past three years, which makes me fearful of what another three years will bring. And the buttons? The left one, made of solid horn, is what you got if you requested horn buttons with your suit from a Canadian manufacturer. That was three years ago. Now you get the one on the right, made of powdered horn mixed with glue, with a surcharge added to your purchase.

The Blues

2010-06-25T09:56:00.000-07:00

When it comes to colors, blue is a fairly safe choice. You can get any item in it, and it harmonizes well with other colors. And just because blue is prevalent, it need not be predictable. Instead, a familiar color opens the way to experimenting with different shades and patterns.

Open Auditions

2010-06-18T21:27:00.000-07:00

Calling all dads and dads-to-be: bring glory back. Back to clothes. Back to dress. Back to you. Make it a point of honour again to "dress like a dad".

A Take on Street Style

2010-06-18T21:25:00.000-07:00

That's "shoes", right?

Label Bound

2010-06-05T19:50:00.001-07:00

Some labels are just worth seeking out. You know them as being the best in cashmeres, silks, leathers, tailoring or what have you. The handkerchief maker in the picture supplies some of the best-regarded French and English houses with their's. And what does one do upon acquiring said mouchoir? Promptly cut off the label, as it shows when the handkerchief is worn.

Made-to-Order

2010-06-05T19:03:00.000-07:00

Sandals for Her: A choice of styles and colors encompassing heel heights, and all manner of straps and adornments. Sized and made on premise, the sandals are ready to wear in less than a day, fitting included.

The Edit

2010-06-05T18:42:00.000-07:00

I was reminded of the value of having a tight edit of clothes when I was packing for a trip. Limited closet space, never mind a roll-on suitcase, really forces one to consider which items are must-haves. So I made a list of what to bring, making sure each item was versatile and appropriate for the occassion. Needless to say, the hippopotamus did not make it this time around, but there was still plenty of room for a good time.

Dirty Laundry

2010-05-22T09:11:00.001-07:00

Oh, what stories our clothes would have to tell. Of conquests, loss, pomp and circumstance. The clothes with a deep patina would tell the richest stories. They have been around the longest, worn for the battle of the day again and again, and have earned their place in the closet. The shiny and new would listen on, not having experienced the wear of life, hoping that they too would pick up a nick or two over time.

Small Steps

2010-05-15T23:20:00.000-07:00

My shoes from when I was a toddler, circa early 80's. My father showed me these during a recent visit. I was struck by the quality of the shoe: full leather uppers, soles and lining; Goodyear welted; and precise stitching. And they were made in Canada. Not bad for a pair of baby shoes. If only they were in a size 9.5D, I would wear them again.

A World Away

2010-05-15T22:58:00.000-07:00

Earlier in March I was measured for a bespoke sport coat. I knew going in that the coat would be cut and sewn in London and brought back to Vancouver for a fitting in the Fall, which is when I would see it next. So it was to my delight when I found out that Jonathan is documenting the process on his blog. His updates and pictures will help the time pass until Fall is upon us.

Look 3

2010-05-15T22:20:00.000-07:00

There is a casual air in the city with the warmer weather. It seems everyone is wearing less, and I find myself lightening up as well. Lighter fabrics and lighter tones complimented by the textures of straw, silk, linen and suede for that casual warm weather look.

Instant Gratification

2010-04-03T11:01:00.000-07:00

A good shoeshine is gratifying, made especially so by the effort and time put in. Wrap a clean cotton cloth around a finger, and mix some wax shoe polish with a bit of water. Work on one area at a time, and apply the polish in small swirls. Keep working the polish in with the swirling motion. The streaks in the polish will gradually disappear as a high shine develops. Lighten up the pressure as you go. Voila! No additional brushing or buffing needed, except maybe for some more practice.

A Breath of Fresh Air - Part 2

2010-03-13T10:56:00.000-08:00

My first experience with bespoke tailoring was a breath of fresh air. I can be discerning on matters of clothes and cloth. And whereas the current retail environment allows for choice so long as it is available, the bespoke experience is very much defined by the wishes of the customer.

So as I set out to define my first bespoke coat, I had a selection of cloth and linings to choose from. And when I was done, my measurements were taken. I proceeded to specify how I would like the sleeves and lapels to be cut, how the inside of the coat would be faced, what the pockets were to be, and on to other matters.

Through it all, tailor and customer had a dialogue. Wishes, wants and needs were accomodated. At no point was there hesitation, or a need to settle or make do. In short, it seemed all was possible. A fresh experience indeed.

A Breath of Fresh Air

2010-03-13T10:10:00.000-08:00

With Spring knocking, there is a lot of wardrobe planning (read: purchases) to be done. This is especially so for tailored clothing as the start of the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons bring with them trunk shows, made-to-measure events and tailor visits. On the latter, Vancouver has been sorely missing. Not quite New York, nor San Francisco, Vancouver has been left out of the trip itineraries of Europe's best bespoke tailors and artisans as they visit North America.

Hopefully there will be better things to come for Vancouver. Already, London-based bespoke tailor Jonathan Quearney has been visiting Vancouver as part of his North American travels for the past two seasons. And maybe if Vancouver is ready for excellence, service, comfort and fit more bespoke tailors will find reason to add it to their lists of cities to visit.

Workhour

2010-02-19T12:16:00.000-08:00

Shades of Gray

2010-02-19T12:04:00.000-08:00

Glowing Endorsement

2010-02-19T12:00:00.000-08:00

During the Noon Hour Rush

2010-02-19T11:44:00.000-08:00

Mid Day

2010-02-19T11:33:00.000-08:00

Want - Part 2

2010-02-17T10:10:00.000-08:00

What is better than one cookie?

I like asking people who are visibly stuck with a choice and having to make a decision the above question. The answer I get back, without fail, is two cookies.

I like the concept of being able to surround ourselves with simple luxuries and things which make us happy. When faced with a choice, instead of picking one option over the other, we can choose both.

Now, as to my next sportcoat...

Want - Part 1

2010-02-17T09:16:00.000-08:00

Sometimes just wanting something is good enough.

The picture is of a silk square I bought many years ago when my knowledge or means did not warrant it. Did I need it then? No, but I did not feel the need to rationalize my decision to buy either. What I did feel was the square speak to me. Its color, weave and weight took hold of my heart when I first saw it. Out of all the squares I own today, this one remains my favorite.

You can buy for love.

Seeing Red

2010-02-15T17:09:00.000-08:00

Two of a Kind

2010-02-14T19:26:00.000-08:00

Shirt Detail

2010-02-14T19:24:00.000-08:00

On Broadway

2010-02-14T19:18:00.000-08:00

Saturday, 4:53 p.m.

2010-02-13T21:45:00.000-08:00

Dynamic duo: Champagne, cameras, lights, and lineups welcomed Dean and Dan Caten of DSQUARED² fame into town.

So Much to Love

2010-02-13T21:31:00.000-08:00

Windswept 2

2010-02-13T21:29:00.000-08:00

Genteel

2010-02-13T21:26:00.000-08:00

Windswept 1

2010-02-13T21:16:00.000-08:00

That Color

2010-02-13T21:11:00.000-08:00

At the Train Station

2010-02-13T21:02:00.000-08:00

On Time

2010-02-13T20:39:00.000-08:00

The world seems so much nicer when we take our time. Destinations turn into journeys. This applies very much to sartorial journeys where personal styles evolve over time. From where we have come from, to where we are heading, it is best to savor each moment.

Workshop Visit - The Milliner

2010-02-10T11:52:00.000-08:00

Here are pictures of a millinery studio/boutique I stumbled upon during my travels in Portland, Oregon.

Above is a semi-finished hat, with its brim and crown formed. All that is left to do is to sew on a hat band and decorative ribbon.

This hat started out as a shapeless piece of wool felt which was formed over a wooden block with steam and pins, a process called "blocking''.

Blocks come in all shapes and sizes, and in turn this translates to hats. A blockmaker skilled in woodwork and design is a valuable asset to a milliner as blocks give hats their shape.

With thanks to Dayna Pinkham of Pinkham Millinery.

In Thought

2010-01-24T19:07:00.000-08:00

For the Day

2010-01-24T19:04:00.000-08:00

Sunday, 2:50 p.m.

2010-01-24T17:03:00.000-08:00

The show must go on: Wind, rain, cold and a passerby did not deter the picture taking at hand.

A Delight

2010-01-23T22:07:00.000-08:00

Trim

2010-01-23T21:59:00.000-08:00

How We Love to People Watch

2010-01-23T17:05:00.000-08:00

Ah, a little bit of people watching to while the day away. Good for a pastime and in passing. With as many looks out there as there are people, there will definitely be a pleasing detail or two in amongst the crowd. Just bring an open mind, and keep your eyes open. And if you do catch someone's eye, offer a kind smile or hello.

Dégagé

2010-01-17T16:05:00.000-08:00

Out in the Crowd

2010-01-17T15:56:00.000-08:00

The Musician

2010-01-10T10:29:00.000-08:00

Spring Coming 2

2010-01-10T10:25:00.000-08:00

Spring Coming 1

2010-01-10T10:22:00.000-08:00

On the Town

2010-01-10T10:18:00.000-08:00

Saturday, 2:07 p.m.

2010-01-10T10:12:00.000-08:00

On the sheet: Fashion show at the Robson Square ice rink.

Textures

2010-01-02T17:01:00.000-08:00

Epaulet Utility

2010-01-02T16:55:00.000-08:00