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Sunday, October 25, 2009
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Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Insights and Commentary - Jonathan Quearney
Jonathan Quearney is a bespoke tailor from London who travels to North America bi-annually to meet with customers. He is visiting Vancouver for the first time, and will be at the Wedgewood Hotel on October 21 and 22. Visit him at www.jonathanquearney.com/weblog to make an appointment.
You are…
Jonathan Quearney - Bespoke Tailor and Outfitter.
The road traveled…
My introduction to tailoring was through working in my father's business in Dublin, this then took me to fashion design college and then onto Savile Row. Here I worked for Airey & Wheeler lightweight and tropics specialist, followed by time spent with my mentor Thomas Mahon founder of English Cut. This gave me a grounding in British Tailoring and that lead to conversations about it where I met other people trained in shoe making, shirt making, textile printing and embroidery. These fortuitous meetings inspired me to establish Jonathan Quearney Bespoke Tailor, Outfitters & Clothiers in 2003.
The more things change…
A big change is how today fashion is consumed almost like fast food. Garments are produced mechanically and the relationship people have with fashion seems to be more about the experience or aspiration, than with the clothes we buy. The science of the retail experience may have gone too far.
The more they stay the same…
People's will to be individual has stayed the same. This decade the outlet people used to be individual was combining fashion from the mass market with vintage clothing. Being individual will always be a part of human nature as long as we have an outlet.
On style…
It's a process of discovery and I think generally speaking men and women approach it very differently. When men buy clothes from a bespoke tailor they choose practicality first. When they feel comfortable with the process they then take more risks and their personal style begins to emerge. Men want you to tell them what is going to work best for them whereas women are happy to try experimenting without considering what they want.
Favorite memory/experience…
My first Savile Row suit was a real moment. I was training on Savile Row and the boss gave me a length of cloth for my birthday so I was all set. The head cutter drafted the pattern and I struck the cloth and selected the trimmings and innards for its construction. I was on good terms with the best coat maker working for the firm who is now sadly no longer with us. The first fitting was prepared and I stood in the fitting room waiting to try it on. The cutter dropped it on the back of my neck patted it down on my shoulders. "So how does it feel" he said with a serious inquiring tone in his voice. God I thought how does it feel, I couldn't think of what to say. "Well" he said staring at me in the mirror, he could see that I was a bit lost for words. "I can't really feel anything" I replied. "Good that's how a bespoke suit fits. You can't really notice it because its cut to your body and so it feels the same everywhere and that creates the feeling of nothing" and it was as simple as that.
Your style…
I used to be very conscious of what others might have thought about how I dressed. In my teens my style had a nativity that sometimes created unexpected juxtapositions in my dress sense. In my twenties style was probably more about communicating and executing a style. So far my thirties style seems to have a nonchalance that I suppose is a confidence I have gained through my work. Ultimately style should be a discovery that changes as we become more aware of what we like.
Big fan of…
I love clothing that reminds me that I haven't been around for a very long time. Softness in my clothes that gives me a comfort and confidence. If an item of clothing can wear a stain for an evening I feel pretty comfortable in it. My tailoring construction is inspired by old clothing, lightweight canvasses, the thinnest 1/4" shoulder padding and bias cutting all give that softness and most importantly comfort when worn, so the clothes are immediately familiar.
Insights and Commentary (this is a blog after all)...
A large part of my work everyday is to assist, direct or observe the creative process. This is working with a client to build a wardrobe using color and cut to reflect who they are and has different results every time.
You are…
Jonathan Quearney - Bespoke Tailor and Outfitter.
The road traveled…
My introduction to tailoring was through working in my father's business in Dublin, this then took me to fashion design college and then onto Savile Row. Here I worked for Airey & Wheeler lightweight and tropics specialist, followed by time spent with my mentor Thomas Mahon founder of English Cut. This gave me a grounding in British Tailoring and that lead to conversations about it where I met other people trained in shoe making, shirt making, textile printing and embroidery. These fortuitous meetings inspired me to establish Jonathan Quearney Bespoke Tailor, Outfitters & Clothiers in 2003.
The more things change…
A big change is how today fashion is consumed almost like fast food. Garments are produced mechanically and the relationship people have with fashion seems to be more about the experience or aspiration, than with the clothes we buy. The science of the retail experience may have gone too far.
The more they stay the same…
People's will to be individual has stayed the same. This decade the outlet people used to be individual was combining fashion from the mass market with vintage clothing. Being individual will always be a part of human nature as long as we have an outlet.
On style…
It's a process of discovery and I think generally speaking men and women approach it very differently. When men buy clothes from a bespoke tailor they choose practicality first. When they feel comfortable with the process they then take more risks and their personal style begins to emerge. Men want you to tell them what is going to work best for them whereas women are happy to try experimenting without considering what they want.
Favorite memory/experience…
My first Savile Row suit was a real moment. I was training on Savile Row and the boss gave me a length of cloth for my birthday so I was all set. The head cutter drafted the pattern and I struck the cloth and selected the trimmings and innards for its construction. I was on good terms with the best coat maker working for the firm who is now sadly no longer with us. The first fitting was prepared and I stood in the fitting room waiting to try it on. The cutter dropped it on the back of my neck patted it down on my shoulders. "So how does it feel" he said with a serious inquiring tone in his voice. God I thought how does it feel, I couldn't think of what to say. "Well" he said staring at me in the mirror, he could see that I was a bit lost for words. "I can't really feel anything" I replied. "Good that's how a bespoke suit fits. You can't really notice it because its cut to your body and so it feels the same everywhere and that creates the feeling of nothing" and it was as simple as that.
Your style…
I used to be very conscious of what others might have thought about how I dressed. In my teens my style had a nativity that sometimes created unexpected juxtapositions in my dress sense. In my twenties style was probably more about communicating and executing a style. So far my thirties style seems to have a nonchalance that I suppose is a confidence I have gained through my work. Ultimately style should be a discovery that changes as we become more aware of what we like.
Big fan of…
I love clothing that reminds me that I haven't been around for a very long time. Softness in my clothes that gives me a comfort and confidence. If an item of clothing can wear a stain for an evening I feel pretty comfortable in it. My tailoring construction is inspired by old clothing, lightweight canvasses, the thinnest 1/4" shoulder padding and bias cutting all give that softness and most importantly comfort when worn, so the clothes are immediately familiar.
Insights and Commentary (this is a blog after all)...
A large part of my work everyday is to assist, direct or observe the creative process. This is working with a client to build a wardrobe using color and cut to reflect who they are and has different results every time.
Monday, October 12, 2009
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Shoe Tree
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A dead tree alive with shoes, in the name of charity. A discovery all the more sweet as it was marathon day in Victoria. Now, if shoes only grew on trees.
Party in the Street
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Life how it should be lived. Carefree. With others. To one's tastes. And clothed of course.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Insights and Commentary - Jennifer Angers Daerendinger
Insights and commentary from people involved in style and fashion in Vancouver
You are…
Jennifer Angers Daerendinger - Makeup Department Career Director, Blanche Macdonald Centre; Art and Fashion lover
The road travelled…
I got there the old fashioned way, through hard work! I started my career in fashion at a low end junior store and moved on to Chanel years later. From Chanel I moved to Tiffany and Company, managed the Holt Renfrew cosmetic department and now have my dream job at BMC.
The more things change…
The biggest thing I have seen change is the consumption of Designer Labels. When I started to work at Chanel in 1989 the women that shopped there were the "well heeled" women of Toronto that could afford to buy whatever they wanted. Now if someone wants to buy a Chanel bag they will do whatever they have to to own it.
The more they stay the same…
Great accessories never grow old. I just pulled out a pair of Chanel motor cycle boots that are probably 12 years old and I will be wearing them this fall.
On style…
I think that if women dress true to what they look great in they will always make a statement. If you try too hard it usually comes across as contrived and not fashionable. Always take one last look in the mirror and if you are questioning something change it.
Favorite memory/experience…
There are so many from my days at Chanel that it would be hard to pick one..... humm..... how about when I had to attend a relative's wedding years ago and decided to wear a spectacular cream silk Chanel pant suit. I did all the makeup for the bridesmaids and moms and had literally 10 minutes to get ready myself. I can't remember ever receiving so many compliments on how I looked. Rocking the red lip certainly sealed the look.
Your style…
I love fashion. Having said that I wear what I like and what works for me. I am a nonconformist when it comes to what's hot and what's not. My closet is filled with great separates that I wear depending on my mood and paired with great accessories. I was once referred to as being an "expensive hippie" and I loved the analogy!
Big fan of…
Basic black. You can never go wrong.
Insights and Commentary (this is a blog after all)...
Don't buy things because they are what's "in", buy them because they are what suits you. Go cheaper on clothes and spend your money on accessories, handbags and shoes. If you feel that a piece of clothing is wearing you get rid of it and don't stress about it. Be true to your style and have fun! It's just fashion.
You are…
Jennifer Angers Daerendinger - Makeup Department Career Director, Blanche Macdonald Centre; Art and Fashion lover
The road travelled…
I got there the old fashioned way, through hard work! I started my career in fashion at a low end junior store and moved on to Chanel years later. From Chanel I moved to Tiffany and Company, managed the Holt Renfrew cosmetic department and now have my dream job at BMC.
The more things change…
The biggest thing I have seen change is the consumption of Designer Labels. When I started to work at Chanel in 1989 the women that shopped there were the "well heeled" women of Toronto that could afford to buy whatever they wanted. Now if someone wants to buy a Chanel bag they will do whatever they have to to own it.
The more they stay the same…
Great accessories never grow old. I just pulled out a pair of Chanel motor cycle boots that are probably 12 years old and I will be wearing them this fall.
On style…
I think that if women dress true to what they look great in they will always make a statement. If you try too hard it usually comes across as contrived and not fashionable. Always take one last look in the mirror and if you are questioning something change it.
Favorite memory/experience…
There are so many from my days at Chanel that it would be hard to pick one..... humm..... how about when I had to attend a relative's wedding years ago and decided to wear a spectacular cream silk Chanel pant suit. I did all the makeup for the bridesmaids and moms and had literally 10 minutes to get ready myself. I can't remember ever receiving so many compliments on how I looked. Rocking the red lip certainly sealed the look.
Your style…
I love fashion. Having said that I wear what I like and what works for me. I am a nonconformist when it comes to what's hot and what's not. My closet is filled with great separates that I wear depending on my mood and paired with great accessories. I was once referred to as being an "expensive hippie" and I loved the analogy!
Big fan of…
Basic black. You can never go wrong.
Insights and Commentary (this is a blog after all)...
Don't buy things because they are what's "in", buy them because they are what suits you. Go cheaper on clothes and spend your money on accessories, handbags and shoes. If you feel that a piece of clothing is wearing you get rid of it and don't stress about it. Be true to your style and have fun! It's just fashion.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
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